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Patagonia Climbers Achieve Bold First Ascents and Repetitions Amid Short Weather Windows
Climbing 'Millacahuin' on Cerro Escudo, Patagonia. Photo: @patagon_rock_ice
You may not think it due to short weather windows and the generally sub-par conditions often associated with the Andes, but Patagonia’s climbing season is in full swing; drawing climbers from near and far to make their mark on these storied peaks.
Chilean climbers Vicente Urzua, Felipe Marin Moreno, and Josefa Miranda opened a new 14-pitch route on the north face of Cerro Escudo. The 600-meter line, named Millacahuin, honors late climber Johan Millacahuin who passed away in a fall on the North Torre del Paine in 2020. Its technical 5.11- (6b) pitches require peak focus and performance for extended periods of time making this climb somewhat of a slow, yet hot burn. Like most lines on this peak, the ascent stops short of the summit, yet it’s a landmark addition to this remote region.
In Argentina, Mati Korten achieved the first free climb of Joviejo on Aguja Pollone. Over two trips, Korten worked with multiple partners to free the formidable route. These are the first repetitions of a 1998 line opened by Erich and Stefan Gatt, a father-and-son duo from Austria.
Previously, Korten opened a new 220-meter line on El Mochito, named Eternal Flauta, in tribute to “two musicians who show up in the valley from time to time,” he said, referring to Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll and Nico Favrese.
Ecuadorian climbers Roberto Jose Morales, Felipe Guarderas, and Nicolas Navarrete recently completed the first repeat of Marc-André’s Vision and Titanic on Torre Egger. Combining these routes into a single 1,000-meter ascent showcased the team’s technical mastery and paid homage to Marc-André Leclerc’s legacy.
Check out the story of Brette Haringtion, Quentin Roberts, and Horacio Gratton's beautifully symbolic and heartfelt first ascent of Marc-Andre's Vision for a little history lesson of this epic line below.
All these incredible feats underscore Patagonia’s enduring allure for climbers seeking challenges in some of the world’s harshest landscapes. Are you psyched??
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