only got them in the fall but liking my Fox Union Boa's, haven't tested hike ability much though yet!
I did just remember one odd thing about my RC Tallacs. The soles must be thicker than many shoes. I couldn't run them with my Time Speciale 8s, there was no sole clearance and they were almost impossible to clip out. No issue with other time pedals.
I actually did both, though the shim was pretty thin and didn't solve it. I had an extra pair of pedals on the shelf so I was lazy and just did that when my initial tinkering didn't help.
Planning to run clips on the new Spur when it comes in so maybe I'll revisit this.
I basically always use a dremel with an abrasive cylinder to grind out a bunch of rubber from near the cleat. (I would post a pic, buuuut…)
Forum Cross Pollinator, gratuitously strident
Spoke tension when building a new wheel.
What are your thoughts on tension dropping when you add a tire and air it up?
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However many are in a shit ton.
Pump for first year NICA kid? (7th/Devo) figure one with a short hose for valve protection?
I've had a Lezyne HV beating itself silly in my fanny pack for at least 5 years. Still works as new. Every once in a while I shake the gravel out of it.
https://ride.lezyne.com/collections/...e=Hand%20Pumps
Thanks, maybe I'll buy two because my crankbro sucks
Clicked on link. Counted 8 different HV pumps. Which one are you loving?
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However many are in a shit ton.
Tech Drive HV, Black, Small
https://ride.lezyne.com/products/1-mp-tchv-v1m04
Favorite Moab camping areas with pretty strong cell signal? Not expecting new information necessarily. Can't remember which areas had strong signal before. I'm finally getting my ass down to the desert for a trip before I legitimately burn out from work and before I get surgery on the 19th. I have a business phone call I will need to take and a zoom call. Ideal I do these from camp instead of at some coffee shop in town. I've had decent signal at North K and off 127. Can't remember if there is signal off 340.
The north Klondike Bluffs area has a really close tower, but still can be spotty in the actual (new) campground.
Forum Cross Pollinator, gratuitously strident
Spray degreaser
Is there a consensus on a product that is safe to use around plastic and rubber? Planning to do a pivot bearing service and there are a couple bearings on my frame that I think I'm going to leave in place and try to flush from one side.
I've got a Shimano XT brake lever that the reach adjust screw likes to back itself off while I'm blasting down bumpy downhills or on long uphills where I go a long way without touching the brakes.
I tried adding some locktite to the screw but the end is captured by a permanent looking circlip. Does anyone have any pointers on what's going on/ways to fix it or should I just buy a new 30 buck lever assembly and call it good?
I have a can of the Maxima Suspension Cleaner I've used for that. I figure if all the RS service docs call for using that liberally to clean suspension parts inside and out during service, it's probably fine to blow out old bearing grease. I've used it for exactly that changing the grease on some Chris King bottom brackets and headsets, with no issues (they did get new rubber seals as part of the service though).
Has anyone mulleted the current gen MK3 YT Capra 29er?
I have a Core 3 and would like to make the back end feel a bit shorter and more agile. Sounds like YT don't/won't sell the actual MX rear triangle, but is there any reason I can't just buy a new rear wheel and slide it on? Do I need to buy a new cassette and brake rotor etc too? Will the bb height be too low, even in the high position? Sorry, kinda clueless as to what too low would be... Would it be a dumb idea to think I could regularly switch out the rear wheels, with a 27.5 with DHR's for rowdier riding and the current 29 with lighter tyres for big climbing days?
Also, any ad/disadvantages to mulleting the 29er compared to the ‘native’ MX? The chain stays will still be longer than the mullet version, and slightly less progressive kinematics...
A simple rule of thumb is that swapping like for like (put a 27.5 rear wheel on a 29er without changing fork travel) will result in slacking out the head and seat tube angles by about 0.9 degrees, and dropping (29->mullet) the BB 12mm.
In my experience messing around with mullet conversions before they became more readily available, they work better on bikes with longer chainstays (440+mm). Mullet bikes with short chainstays corner really funny - they tend to have the rear end cut in and seriously square off corners that a matched wheelsize bike would not taking the same line. And the 12mm BB drop is a really big deal on some bikes, making them essentially unrideable in rough terrain.
If you are using a DHX2 shock by any chance, Cascade Components makes a new lower shock eyelet that extends the shock eye to eye enough to counter putting on a 27.5 rear wheel. https://cascadecomponents.bike/produ...t-2022-current They also make MX links for some bikes (not YT), as does Williams Racing Products (also not YT).
If you are dead set on doing this and hopping back and forth between wheel sizes, the best setup for your bike would be:
DHX2 with Cascade MX link for mullet, some other shock for 29
dedicated 27.5 rear wheel *using the same exact model of rear hub* as your 29 rear wheel. This is so that you don't have to readjust the brake caliper each swap.
for faster conversion, you'd want an identical rotor and cassette on both rear wheels.
The Pandemic insanity changed things forever, unfortunately.
Forum Cross Pollinator, gratuitously strident
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